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What better way to celebrate this planet that we live on by planting some new foliage. Plants are the backbone to the survival of earth as we know it. By planting a tree or any other living foliage you are helping to reduce gases that can destroy our home. Please join us in protecting and celebrating this place we call home. Join us by planting a tree! Below is a how to guide for planting your tree.
What better way to celebrate this planet that we live on than by planting some new foliage. Plants are the backbone to the survival of earth as we know it. By planting a tree or any other living foliage you are helping to reduce gases that can destroy our home. Please join us in protecting and celebrating this place we call home. Join us by planting a tree! Below is a how to guide for planting your tree.
Answering these key questions can help you choose the right tree for your yard:
Evergreen or deciduous?Evergreen trees keep leaves all year. They are good trees for privacy, wind breaks and hot areas.Deciduous trees lose their leaves in fall or winter. They are good trees to plant on the south side of your home to provide shade in the summer and warmth in the winter when the sun can shine through.Plant evergreen or deciduous on the east and west sides of your home to provide shade in the summer.
What size tree?Different types of trees vary in their height and width. When picking your tree consider where you want it and learn howbig your tree will get. Remember you don't want a tree that gets really tall near power lines or to close to your home.
What else should you consider?
Trees can add more to your home than shade or a wind block. Consider trees for their:
Flowers: Flowers add color to the landscape and attract butterflies, hummingbirds and other wildlife.
Fall color: Red, orange, yellow and purple are all colors that add beauty in the fall.
Shape: Trees can be oval, pyramidal, round, spreading, vase-shaped or narrow; all add interest to your landscape.
Fruit: Many varieties of fruits can be grown in Indiana.
Now that you have picked your tree it's time to get it into the ground. Remember this is very important for your tree. Not any old hole will do! The first and most common mistake when planting a tree is in digging a hole which is both too narrow and deep. With a hole too deep, it's roots don’t have access to enough oxygen to ensure proper growth. Too narrow and the root structure can’t expand enough to nourish and properly anchor the tree. As a rule of thumb, trees should be transplanted no deeper than the soil in which they were originally grown. The width of the hole should be at least 3 times the diameter of the root ball or container or the spread of the roots in the case of bare root trees. This will provide the tree with enough worked earth for its root structure to establish itself. When digging in poorly drained clay soil, it is important to avoid ‘glazing’. Glazing occurs when the sides and bottom of a hole become smoothed forming a barrier, through which water has difficulty passing. To break up the glaze, use a fork to work the bottom and drag the points along the sides of the completed hole. Also, raising the center bottom of the hole slightly higher than the surrounding area. This allows water to disperse, reducing the possibility of water pooling in the planting zone. > Planting Balled and Bur-lapped Trees. Balled and bur-lapped trees, should be planted as soon as possible. Balled and bur-lapped trees should always be lifted by the ball, never by the trunk. The burlap surrounding the ball of earth and roots should either be cut away completely or at least pulled back from the top third of the ball. NOTE: Some trees are wrapped in synthetic or plastic burlap and these must be completely removed. Any string or twine should also be removed. Back fill soil (combination of peat moss, composted manure, topsoil, etc.) is then placed in the hole surrounding the tree just to the height of the ball or slightly lower to allow for some settling. Be careful not to compress the back fill soil as this may prevent water from reaching the roots and the roots from expanding beyond the ball. > Planting Container Trees. With Container trees the soil in the container is kept moist and the tree stored in a shady spot till planting. Planting container trees is similar to that for Balled and bur-lapped trees. In the case of metal or plastic containers, remove the container completely. In the case of fiber containers, tear the sides away. Once carefully removed from the container, check the roots. If they are tightly compressed, use your fingers or a blunt instrument (to minimize root tearing) to carefully tease the fine roots away from the tight mass and then spread the roots prior to planting. In the case of extremely woody compacted roots, it may be necessary to use a spade to open up the bottom half of the root system. The root system is then pulled apart or ‘butterflied’ prior to planting. Loosening the root structure in this way is extremely important in the case of container plants. Failure to do so may result in the roots ‘girdling’ and killing the tree. At the very least, the roots will have difficulty expanding beyond the dimensions of the original container. To further assist this, lightly break up even the soil outside the planting zone. This allows roots that quickly move out of the planting zone to be more resilient as they anchor into existing surrounding soil conditions. Once the tree is seated in the hole, the original soil is then back-filled into the hole to the soil level of the container. Again, remember not to overly compress the back-filled soil especially by tramping it with your feet. Compress gently using your hands instead > Planting Bare-Rooted Trees. Bare-rooted tree planting is a little different as there is no soil surrounding the roots. These trees must be planted as soon as possible to avoid drying out. When purchasing bare-rooted trees, inspect the roots to ensure that they are moist and have numerous lengths of fine root hairs (healthy). Care should be taken to ensure that the roots are kept moist in the period between purchase and planting. Prune broken or damaged roots but save as much of the root structure as you can. To plant, first build a cone of earth in the center of the hole around which to splay the roots. Make sure that when properly seated on this cone the tree is planted so that the ‘trunk flare’ is clearly visible and the ‘crown’, where the roots and top meet, is about two inches above the soil level. This is to allow for natural settling. TO LEARN MORE ABOUT PLANTING THE RIGHT WAY VISIT DEEP ROOT OF LANDSCAPE TREES . This guide will give you more info on how to place your tree in the ground correctly.
Once your tree is planted, it will concentrate its energy on standing upright. Young trees should be able to support their own weight, but when they are transplanted, they often need time to reestablish themselves. If it does not stay up on its own, you may need to stake it in place. Use the following below as a guide to staking your tree.
1. Only stake the tree long enough for it to be able stand on its own. 2. Stakes should not be too tight - there should be room for the tree to sway in the wind. 3. Stakes should not be too loose - the tree should not rub against the stakes. 4. Stakes should be buried at least 1.5 feet underground to provide ample support.
> Watering Now that you have planted your tree, it is time to care for it. Your tree should be watered at the time of planting. In addition, during the first growing season, it should be watered at least once a week in the absence of rain, more often during the height of the summer. Care should be taken not to over water or drown the roots as this will result in oxygen deprivation.
Regular deep soakings are better than frequent light watering. Moisture should reach a depth of 12 to 18 inches below the soil surface to encourage ideal root growth. If you can't decide if your tree needs watering, dig down 6-8 inches at the edge of the planting hole. If the soil at that depth feels dry, powdery or crumbly, the tree needs water. Adequately moistened soil should form a ball when squeezed.> MulchingTo conserve moisture and promote water and air penetration, the back filled soil surrounding newly-planted trees can be covered with mulch consisting of material such as bark, wood chips or pine needles (although the acidity associated with pine needles is not suited for many plants). Mulch depth should be between 3 to 4 inches. Do not, under any circumstances, cover the area surrounding the tree with plastic sheeting since air and water movement are prevented. Porous landscape fabric can be used since it freely allows water and air penetration.>FertilizerWe recommend that before you fertilize you should get your soil tested. It can be beneficial to analyze the soil for proper macro nutrients such as Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P) and Potassium (K), micro nutrients, pH, soil type, and drainage. Although many trees survive without fertilizer at time of planting, the majority of plants suffer root loss and stress associated with movement between ideal nursery grown conditions and the final planting. To compensate for root loss during planting and to alleviate transplant shock, treat your trees with mycorrhizal fungi and fertilizers with the right formulation for the type of tree you are planting. A bio stimulant can also aid in root development and general tree health. Enjoy your new tree for many years to come and remember you just helped Mother Earth!
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